Thailand (Living Among Elephants)

I quickly learned the secret of bathing an elephant in a river——namely, move quickly to avoid getting squished. With brush in hand, I stood a little...

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Cambodia (Siem Reap And Angkor Wat)

The roughly 15-minute ride from the heart of Siem Reap to Angkor Wat in northwest Cambodia is a swirling cacophony of tuk-tuks, cars, buses, scooters and...

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Cuba . . . Before The Change

The dichotomy of modern Cuba was captured on my second night in Havana during a nine-day visit to the country in late 2015. On a Sunday night, a handful...

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The Black Hills: A Complicated Legacy

The Black Hills of South Dakota and Wyoming pack a bifurcated legacy that captures the best and worst of the American experience. It’s hard not to think...

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Namibia (The Great African Road Trip)

It’s thrilling––and humbling––to see African wildlife on their home turf where they truly are born free. And it’s equally thrilling to...

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Namibia (Sossusvlei Dunes)

The dunes at Sossusvlei in Namib-Naukluft Park are Namibia’s postcard image, a collection of large, apricot-colored sand mountains with sinuous wind-blown...

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Namibia (Self-Drive Safari)

In the world of African safaris, Namibia is underrated and understated––and that’s to the advantage of tourists and, most important, to the wildlife...

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India (Jaipur, Taj Mahal & Varanasi)

My Taj Mahal moment came on the viewing platform at the opposite end of the reflecting pool that provides glimpses of an upside-down Taj shimmering in...

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India’s Erotic Temples (Khajuraho)

Imagine the affront to the Victorian sensibilities of British officer T.S. Burt when he came upon the temples of Khajuraho in 1838. There, hidden by a...

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India (Bus Ride Through The Hinterlands)

Sometimes the most revealing glimpses of a country are found on its highways and byways, which can make long journeys through unfamiliar places an illuminating...

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